Dragons of the Central Pacifica (Not Really) by Jack Ewing

What looks like a miniature prehistoric monster (1 to 2 kilos) is; listed by Guinness Book of World Records as the world´s fastest lizard; will eat almost anything from fruit to juveniles of its own species; and is commonly found in the Central Pacific of Costa Rica, particularly in Costa Ballena. 

It's called Ctenosaura similis, or the Black Spiny-Tailed Iguana. In recent years, the ctenosaurs have become more abundant around Hacienda Barú Lodge of Matapalo and other locations. They are getting so accustomed to seeing people that they no longer run away when approached. This doesn't mean that they're friendly. It means only that they have lost their fear of humans and will still deliver a nasty bite if you try to touch one. A friend made that mistake and the black iguana took a chunk out of his hand along with the piece of cookie being offered.

Normally, however, they aren't aggressive to people. Several black spiny-tailed iguanas hangout near beach restaurants, and the staff sometimes have to shoo them out with a broom. At Hacienda Barú, one managed to climb onto a table where a guest was having breakfast. Before anyone could react, it ate the gentleman's scrambled eggs and made a speedy exit.

The Lizard With an Incredible Digestive System

Black Spiny-Tailed Iguanas have an in-credibly diverse diet. They love all kinds of fruits, buds, and leaves, but will never pass up the opportu-nity to enrich their diets with a bit of animal protein. I once saw one grab a hummingbird that got too close and swallowed it whole in the same manner as would a snake. One of our naturalist guides saw one eat a bat and another a juvenile green iguana. One of the receptionists captured a video on her phone of a female ctenosaur swallowing a juvenile of her own species. It could even have been her own offspring. Dogs that bite cane toads get very sick and sometimes die, but a staff member saw a black iguana catch one and swallow it with no ill effects. A hotel guest snapped a beautiful photo of one eating a land crab. The black spiny-tailed iguana truly has an incredible digestive system

Black and Green Tree Chickens

In the mid-1970s on a trip to Hacienda Barú with my 10-year-old daughter, Natalie, a green  iguana ran across the rough gravel road. “Oh my god  Daddy, what was that horrible thing?” I laughed and told her not to worry that it was only a green iguana, and that they are perfectly harmless. “They're good to eat,” I said. “They taste like chicken. It's sometimes called 'tree chicken'”. Her face turned green. “Daddy! I’m gonna puke!” I brought the car to an abrupt halt, and Natalie hung out the window and relieved herself of lunch. 

Later, she explained that on the previous Sunday, she had gone to Puntarenas with a friend’s family, and they had eaten “tree chicken” at a restaurant.

Common Food Back in the Day

In those days, green iguanas were a common meal at rural dinner tables. Black spiny-tailed iguanas were seldom eaten. I remember asking one of the workers at Hacienda Barú if people ever eat black iguanas. “We don’t eat them,” he replied. “But there are people who do,” with a disgusted look on his face.

Humans have traditionally preferred meat from herbivores over that of carnivores. Green iguanas (Iguana iguana) are strictly herbivores, though they will occasionally accidentally consume insects or snails found on leaves they are eating. On the other hand, black spiny-tailed iguanas are omnivores. 

Humans have traditionally preferred meat from herbivores over that of carnivores. Green iguanas (Iguana iguana) are strictly herbivores, though they will occasionally accidentally consume insects or snails found on leaves they are eating. On the other hand, black spiny-tailed iguanas are omnivores. 

"Considered endangered in Mexico, the main risk factors that threaten the species are the fragmentation and decline of its habitat and the consumption of its meat, skin and eggs. Likewise, the presence of human settlements in coastal areas is an important factor of displacement for many species; as well as the fragmentation of forests and the devastation of mangroves ." [Wikipedia]

From the cattle business in the USA to becoming into an environmentalist and naturalist in Costa Rica, Jack is currently president of two environmental organizations, ASANA (Frends of Nature of the Central & South Pacific) and FUNDANTA (Foundation for the Path of the Tapir Biological Corridor)

A natural–born storyteller, Jack’s articles have appeared regularly in Costa Rica publications, and he is author of several books, Monkeys Are Made of Chocolate and Where Tapirs and Jaguars once Roamed: Ever–Evolving Costa Rica. His latest book is titled Monkeys Are Made of Mangos.