What's Underneath The Mask?

By Anna Lovelace

 photo: Anna Lovelace           

It’s safe to say everyone has heard of the famous words, Pura Vida. Literally translating to “pure life”, the phrase is widely embraced by the locals and tourists alike. It can be used in parallel with good-mornings or goodbyes, gracias or de nada. But it’s more than just a “dicho”. This phrase holds within it an ancient worldview, one which recognizes how to be in right relationship with nature. This Pura Vida philosophy has been interwoven and passed down, and it can be witnessed in the way that Ticos care for their home— recognizing the importance of having diverse jungles, clean beaches, and healthy rivers. The indigenous communities have held such understandings about respecting and loving the nature that makes Costa Rica so wild and beloved. In fact, one endemic group known as the Boruca (Brunka or Borunca) people even used nature to protect them from invaders long, long ago. 

Cultural Identity

The Boruca are well-known for their strong cultural identity that has been grounded in traditions, art making, and storytelling. They are the source for the wooden masks that are found all throughout Costa Rica’s airports, souvenir shops, decorating “sodas” and coffee shops. These masks have been hand-carved from the same tree that was used to hollow out canoes, known as the Balsa tree. Each mask has a devilish character resembling the flora, fauna, and animals endemic to the region. It was these very masks that protected their community, conserving their culture so that we can still tell their story today.

In the 16th century when the Spaniards arrived in Costa Rica, they discovered the wonderfully lush mountains and fertile grounds in the Talamanca mountain range. But they would soon discover that they were not alone. The only thing stopping them from claiming this land as their own were the Boruca people. The conquistadors, having found the Boruca people to be a stubborn bunch to conquer and convert to Catholicism, referred to them as “devil-worshippers”. Combining wit, nature, and the derogatory nickname, the Boruca people created a sinister plan to escape enslavement from the Spaniards. 

Harnessing the lightweight bark of the balsa tree, the Boruca chiseled devilish faces and depictions into the wood, using artwork as a scare tactic against their invaders. Not only did it work, the Spaniards left wanting nothing to do with such hellish people. Thus a legacy was created, and an entire civilization protected. 

Hence the Mask

It is from this story that the famous masks were born, and the annual celebration of this indigenous victory earned its name: Fiesta de los Diablitos. Also referred to as Juego de los Diablitos, the Dance of the Devils is a recreation of the Boruca’s success in maintaining their identity and their independence from the colonizers. 

From the 30th of December to the 2nd of January, the valleys echo with demonic shrieks and the steady thrumming of drums and stomping of feet. In the early morning hours, before the roosters even think of crowing, a conch shell blasts a call across the mountains, commemorating the start of the festival, and awakening the little devils. The fiesta is a four-day celebration deeply enriched with storytelling and symbolism. The Spanish invaders are represented by the bull, and the chicha that is poured freely throughout this celebration demonstrates the blood of the bull. The “little devils” are the masked Boruca men adorned in banana leaves, burlap, or woven cloth commemorating their warrior ancestors. The spectacle is full of movement and action as hoards of men parade from house to house collecting more warriors to the procession and drinking more chicha as they make their way to the town square. The devils and the bull clash for four days straight, physically hitting each other and dancing around the jabs and jaunts thrown by the bull. On the final day, a bonfire is made, engulfing the bull once and for all. The fire lights up the darkness, signaling to the village that the bull is dead, and their village is safe. Music, clapping, chanting and dancing reverberate through the Talamanca hills as the people honor and celebrate their history.

Throughout the years the Boruca have continued to fight in order to maintain their identity in the modernizing world. While they are well known for their strength and resilience, it has not always been easy. In the 1980s the tribe suffered greatly as farming was no longer able to sustain them. But just as the diablitos cannot be so easily killed, individuals from the community would not easily give up. Due to the commitment and dedication of the elders, the customs and traditions have been preserved. Ishmael Gonzales dedicated his life to passing on this knowledge to future generations by teaching young boys the art of mask making. Margarita Moralez banded with other women in the community to create an organization known as La Flor (The Flower) de Boruca. La Flor built a museum that has gained international recognition to promote and sell the communities’ artwork. As a result of the efforts of community members, their testimony lives on today, and they are able to continue with their beautiful way of life. 

In unmasking this story and uncovering the worldview of the Boruca people, we witness the power of nature, art, and resistance. By safeguarding their way of life, the Boruca defended themselves as well as their homeland, helping to preserve the purity of their land. They show us that despite the continual development that our world faces, by preserving our natural world we are also saving ourselves in the process. Perhaps we can learn from their example, and we can all be a bit more devilish. 

Thoughts from the Writer: 

While I am not a Tica, I am from Nashville, Tennessee, and have been living in the Central South Coast of Costa Rica for four years, I feel that it is important to acknowledge that what I have reported in this article is a result of research (and referenced below) coupled with what I experienced when I attended the Fiesta De Los Diablitos in person. My intention with this piece is to honor the culture I have experienced from the outside looking in. If you are interested in this topic, I recommend you check out their resources or support them by purchasing their artwork, sponsoring their cause, telling their story, and attending this year’s Fiesta De Los Diablitos. It starts 30 December for four days located in Boruca Indigenous Territory, located in the South Pacific region of Costa Rica. If you wish to attend, the festival is a public cultural event, and there is no admission fee. Visitors are welcome.

El Juego de los Diablos

behind the mask- http://www.boruca.org/en/

https://youtube.com/@borucacostarica?si=zPHXeuUmD6bgVBlt

___________________________________

Anna Lovelace works as a photographer, massage therapist, and yoga instructor in Manuel Antonio, Dominical, and Uvita. Follow her wellness journey and community events on her Instagram: @wellness.ma. 

In her spare time she enjoys writing science fiction short stories or playing sand volleyball at the beach. You can read more of her writing on her Substack’s profile @annalovelace, “Thoughts on Being” blog. 

Return Home